Brussels is the capital of Belgium and the de facto capital of the European Union. It has a long and rich history dating back to the 10th century. It sometimes gets a bad rap as not having as much character as other places in Belgium, but we’d disagree – its definitely worth a visit!
Brussels located in the central region of the country, close to the border between the northern Dutch-speaking Flanders region and the southern French-speaking Wallonia region. It boasts beautiful historic landmarks like the Grand Place, great museums, Comic Strip murals, fantastic food and a great nightlife. The city is a mix of medieval charm and modern chic. Brussels is very walkable and easy to navigate by foot, metro or bike.
The practical stuff
How long should you stay in Brussels?
We spent two full days in Brussels before moving onto Bruges via Ghent. It was long enough to wander round and see the main sites, but you’d need a bit longer if you wanted to go inside more of the tourist sites. If we’d have wanted to visit some of the museums then we’d definitely have stayed longer.
Where should you stay in Brussels?
The old town is a bit larger than most old towns, however its still quite small and walkable. We’d therefore recommend staying either in the old town, or just outside so that you can still walk in.
The main station (Brussels Midi-Zuid) is in the south and the airport is in the northeast, so you might want to consider this when deciding where to stay.
How do you get there?
We took the Eurostar from London (St Pancras station) which whisked us from London to Brussels in just over two hours. You’ll end up at Brussels Midi-Zuid station, to the south of the old town, which is also the main station to get to most other destinations in Belgium. From there, it’s a 20-30 minute walk into the town centre or a short taxi ride.
You can also fly into Brussels airport, which is about an hour away from the town centre via two buses or a train.
When should you go to Brussels?
Brussels is a big enough city to have something going on all year round. However, spring and autumn will help you miss the crowds in the summer (Brussels can be a bit wet and damp, so you might be chancing it with the weather). Christmas time of course has the Christmas markets.
We went in May. The weather was a bit changeable with some rain (as you’ll see from the photos!) however it didn’t stop us enjoying Brussels and it was nice having it a bit quieter. Just plan indoor activities according to the forecast.
What are the best places to see?
Historic city centre
Whenever we visit a new city, a highlight for us is wandering around beautiful streets surrounded by interesting architecture, and Brussels is no exception. While it doesn’t have the small town charm of Bruges, it’s historic centre is beautiful and one of the best things about Brussels. Yes, it is full of tourists, but it still feels like a ‘real’ city with ‘real people’ in it.
You can of course take a free or paid walking tour, but we prefer self-guided tours. We’ve featured a few highlights in this post, and we’d also recommend:
- Wandering through the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a beautiful glass-covered arcade lined with upscale shops and cafes.
- Getting lost in the quirky antique shops of Marolles, or exploring the bars and restaurants in the Dansaert district.
- Spotting the street art dotted around Brussels. We’d recommend looking up any temporary art installations too – there’s normally something going on.
- Hunting for hidden treasures and soak up the vibrant atmosphere at Marollès Flea Market (weekends only).
- Dropping into the Eglise Saint-Nicolas. Look up high, and you’ll notice a cannon ball embedded into the wall of the left nave from the French bombardment of 1695.
- Seeing the Mont des Arts, a small area on a hill with some beautiful gardens and great architecture.
Why go? Pretty streets and beautiful architecture. But mainly because it’s a great way to see Brussels and orientate yourself to the city.
How long? One day, including stops at a few attractions.
Grand Place
The Grand Place is the main square in Brussels and the most popular tourist attraction in the city – it’s a UNESCO world heritage site for good reason. It dates to the 12th century and has been an important market square for centuries. It’s surrounded by beautiful medieval guildhalls and guild houses, built between the 15th and 17th centuries in Gothic, Baroque and Louis XIV styles. Each one was once home to a different guild, but now the buildings have mainly been taken over by a range of different restaurants and bars. It also has the Hotel de Ville de Bruxells – Brussels’ 15th Century town hall – and the City Museum.
Today, the Grand Place is the heart of downtown Brussels. It’s a great place to admire the architecture, people watch, and eat and drink at the many restaurants and cafes (though you may want to go back a block or two if you want somewhere quieter or cheaper). In summer, there are flower markets and music festivals held in the square. It’s the perfect place to sit at an outdoor cafe, relax and soak up the lively atmosphere.
It’s worth going during the day to see it and wander round, but don’t forget to come back at night when the whole square is beautifully illuminated.
How long? About 30 minutes to wander about and read up on some of the history. Longer if you want to stop at any of the shops, attractions or restaurants.
Why go? Beautiful architecture, medieval buildings, and the hustle and bustle.
The Atomium
The Atomium is one of Brussels’ most iconic landmarks and a must-see for first time visitors. Its controversial – some people love it while others hate it – but we liked it! This futuristic structure was originally built for the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair and resembles an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times.
There are nine polished aluminium spheres, all of them connected and most of them open to tourists. You’ll start by going through an exhibition covering both world fairs in general, plus the Brussels World Fair and the design of the Atomium. You then move through some light shows – which were pretty cool – before going onto a sphere containing temporary exhibitions (when we were there it contained a photo exhibition of different world fair sites). You’ll finish by taking the lift up to the top sphere where you’ll get amazing views across Brussels. When we went, there was a queue to for the lift of about 25 minutes, but it was worth the wait. This sphere also contains a restaurant and bar, perfect for a brief stop or some lunch.
The Atomium is particularly impressive when lit up at night, and has become an internationally recognized symbol of Brussels. It’s located in the Heysel district, a short metro ride from the city centre (we walked, which took us about an hour).
Tickets cost €16 (in May 2024) which gives you access to the Atomium plus the design museum across the road. There were queues to buy tickets and then to enter when we went in the morning. We’d recommend buying tickets online the day before to skip the queues, and also visiting around lunchtime – it was a lot quieter when we left.
How long? 1.5 hours once inside the Atomium. More if you’re stopping at the bar/restaurant and more if you go onto the design museum.
Why go? Beautiful views, an interesting and different attraction, and we now know a lot more about world fairs!
The European Quarter
Brussels is one of the three capitals of the EU, and its well worth having a wander round the European Quarter. Nestled in the city’s east side, think sleek, modern buildings, interspersed with hidden green spaces and a surprising amount of history.
In particular, we’d recommend going to:
- The Berlaymont: This iconic cruciform building is the headquarters of the European Commission, the executive branch of the EU. Guided tours are occasionally offered, so check their website
- The European Parliament (Hemicycle): the beating heart of European democracy where representatives from across the EU debate and vote on legislation. You can book a free visitor session to observe a session live.
- Council of the European Union (Europa Building): This imposing structure houses the Council, where representatives of EU member states meet to discuss and approve legislation. While you can’t wander the halls of power, it’s still an impressive sight.
- Schuman Square: This central square is the heart of the European Quarter, named after Robert Schuman, one of the founding fathers of the EU. Take a seat at a cafe and watch the world of European politics go by.
- Espace Léopold: This charming district, originally built in the 1830s, offers a glimpse into Brussels’ pre-EU past. Explore the elegant townhouses and leafy squares, a contrast to the modern architecture of the EU institutions.
- European Commission Library: This architectural gem houses a vast collection of books and documents related to the European Union. Even if you’re not a bookworm, the building itself, with its impressive atrium and rooftop terrace, is worth seeing.
After a day exploring, head to the lively bars and restaurants around Place Luxembourg for a taste of Brussels’ international atmosphere.
Why go? Interesting buildings, history, and another side to Brussels
How long? Two hours to wander round
Manneken Pis
The Manneken Pis is one of Brussels’ most famous landmarks. It’s a small 55.5 cm bronze fountain sculpture depicting a naked little boy urinating into the fountain’s basin.
The statue dates back to the 17th century, though its origins are a bit murky. According to one legend, a young boy named Julianske saved the city by extinguishing a fuse to a bomb with his urine. The grateful residents erected the fountain in his honour. Another tale says it was built to commemorate a lost nobleman’s son. The little boy is dressed in various costumes throughout the year, with his wardrobe now counting over 900 outfits.
We won’t lie – when we visited it felt like one of those attractions which is visited because its famous. It’s a nice statue and worth seeing, but there’s not too much to it. There’s a nice restaurant (Poechenellekelder) next to it with a pretty whacky interior and relaxed outdoor tables, perfect for sipping on one of the 50 or so Belgian beers they offer.
There’s also two other ‘pis’ statues to find – Jeanneke Pis (little girl) is a small fountain near Delirum Café and Het Zinneke, which is a small statue of a dog (also peeing, but this one isn’t a fountain).
How long? 10 minutes
Why go? Its cute, you’ll probably stroll past it anyway, and you can tick it off the must-see list.
Royal Museums of Fine Arts
The Royal Museums of Fine Arts (Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique) comprise two prestigious art museums housed in an elegant 19th-century building: the Museum of Ancient Art and the Museum of Modern Art. Together, they hold an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, and sculptures spanning several centuries.
The Museum of Ancient Art exhibits works from the 15th to 18th centuries, including an exceptional collection of Flemish Primitive and Renaissance art. Major highlights include masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens, such as his world-famous ‘The Ascent to Calvary’, as well as iconic works by Anthony van Dyck, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, and Jan van Eyck. Be sure to admire Van Eyck’s renowned ‘Adoration of the Mystic Lamb’, a stunning 15th-century altarpiece.
The Museum of Modern Art focuses on 19th and 20th century art, including an impressive array of Belgian art along with works by French, Dutch, and German artists. Key pieces include canvases by James Ensor, Fernand Khnopff, and René Magritte.
Why go? Beautiful art housed in some cool buildings
How long? Two hours per museum, depending on how much you like your art.
Parc du Cinquantenaire
Parc du Cinquantenaire is an impressive public park located in the European Quarter of Brussels. The park features monuments, museums, and architecture dating back to the late 1800s.
The park was built in 1880 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence. It’s a nice place for a stroll with its tree-lined pathways and green spaces, but it’s the Triumphal Arch, an iconic monument with three arched gateways overlooking the park, which really makes a visit worth it.
Some of Brussels’ best museums are located within the Cinquantenaire complex, including The Royal Museum of Art and History, which houses an extensive collection of art, artifacts; the Autoworld museum, which displays vintage cars; and the Royal Army and Military History Museum, which details the military history of Belgium.
Why go? The impressive Triumphal Arch and pretty green spaces
How long? One hour, longer if you want to relax in the sun.
Belgian Comic Strip Center
The Belgian Comic Strip Center is dedicated to Belgium’s rich comic culture, known for characters like Tintin, Smurfs, and many others. Located in an impressive Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta, it features interactive exhibits that bring Belgium’s comic history to life.
One of the highlights is the Belgian Comic Strip Wall, showcasing comic murals painted by local artists. As you walk through, you’ll see famous characters like Lucky Luke, Blake and Mortimer, Marsupilami, and more. The museum has a great gift shop with comic books, figurines, and souvenirs.
It’s a must-see for people interested in comics but it’s still worth a visit for others too for the artwork. Also check out Boutique Tintin on Rue de la Colline, which is a small shop full of Tintin books, artwork and models.
Why go? Comic books and comic strips, art, and perhaps a throwback to your childhood
How long? 1.5 hours.
Mini-Europe
Mini-Europe is a model park located at the foot of the Atomium that features miniature versions of famous landmarks from across Europe.
The park contains miniatures of sites like Big Ben, the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and many more. It’s also very informative, with each model providing history and facts about the landmark and the country it represents. The park also hosts temporary exhibitions focusing on a particular theme or region.
If visiting at the same time as the Atomium then you can get a discounted ticket to visit both attractions.
Why go? Fun models, with perhaps an ice cream in the sun
How long? 1.5 hours
Food and Drink
Brussels is famous for its delicious food and drink scene. From indulgent Belgian waffles to the national dish of moules-frites (mussels and fries), there are plenty of iconic foods to try in Brussels.
Don’t leave without sampling some Belgian chocolate – brands like Neuhaus, Leonidas and Godiva originated here. Stop by the chocolate shops throughout the city or take a tour to learn about the chocolate-making process.
A highlight for us (of our whole Belgian trip) was the Belgian Beer. In particular, we’d recommend the four alleyway bars close to the Grand Place: Au Bon Vieux Temps, À la Bécasse, A l’Imaige Nodstre-Dame and Toone. Each one is atmospheric, quaint and a nice place to stop after a long day walking (and they felt more authentic and local than the nearby Delerium Café). We had the best time at A l’Imaige Nodstre-Dame because of its relaxed and friendly atmosphere, but try all four.
Belgian fries deserve their own mention – stop at Maison Antoine, Fritland or Friterie Tabora for crispy fries made from Bintje potatoes fried twice in beef fat. Dip them in mayo or other sauces for the ultimate snack.
Day Trips from Brussels
Brussels makes an excellent base to take day trips – or to have a multi-city holiday via train. The extensive rail network makes it easy to reach other cities in a short time. Here are some of the best trips from Brussels by train:
Bruges – one of the most popular day trips from Brussels. The journey takes just 1 hour by train, with departures every 30 minutes
Ghent – another charming Flemish city that makes for an easy day trip, just 30 minutes from Brussels by train. More pretty canals, streets and buildings.
Antwerp – Belgium’s second-largest city, with has plenty to see and do. The train journey takes around 1 hour from Brussels.
Waterloo – History buffs can take a short 30-minute train ride from Brussels to Waterloo, site of Napoleon’s defeat in 1815. The Battlefield at Waterloo has been preserved and memorialised so visitors can learn about this pivotal battle. See the Panorama painting depicting the battle, the Hougoumont farmhouse that was key to the Duke of Wellington’s defense, and the Lion’s Mound monument standing 41 meters tall.